Thursday, November 22, 2012

Pants making class - Part 3

I wrote about the pants making class earlier in Part 1 and Part 2. This week was part 3 of the same class. We did front fly zipper and the fitting.

The front fly was so easy to put on, based on the method Agnes taught us and we also added a fly shield. While it was very easy to put in the zipper, I am not very enamoured with the finish of the fly - there are more chances for the zipper teeth or the zipper pull, to show on the outside using this method. And I hate it when zipper pulls show on the fly. Some of my RTW lined wool trousers that cost a pretty penny, also have this problem and I don't like it at all. While this method works for no, I'm more inclined to try and learn Trudy's Fly front zipper on Youtube.

Sandra Betzina also has a fail-proof method for the fly front zipper on the Threads website, but that one doesn't have a fly shield. While Sandra's Pants Construction class on Craftsy has a video of her, demonstrating a fly front with the fly shield, I think Trudy's Flyfront has a cleaner finish. And Sandra attaches the fly shield at the very end, whereas Trudy attaches it at the very beginning.

Debbie Cook also has an easy fly front tutorial based on the ideas she got from Sandra Betzina and other sources.  She also uses double sided tape to hold the zipper in place, which I think is brilliant.

Colleen G Lea from FashionSewingBlog also has a neat flyfront tutorial - one that's easy to follow. Her method is very smilar to Sandra and Trudy's in the sense that the zipper is further away from seam line, but does not have a fly shield. However if I start out like Trudy's where she first attached the zipper tape to the fly shield, I can then proceed with Colleen's method, I think.

So yes, I'll be using one or a combination of these methods instead of the one taught in class, for a cleaner fly front zipper.

The fitting:  This was fun! I had used size 42 of Burda. We ended up taking in 1/4 inch on the side seams and on the inner leg seams. The crotch part, below the fly front zipper, had to be taken in 1/4 inch as well.  But even without taking all these fabric, the fit was surprisingly good! I was super thrilled! :) And yes, I do have a Burda butt! :) And I'm glad that I went with my idea of using Burda pattern instead of the Kwiksew one used in the class. Remember I mentioned that I got some fabric pooling much below the butt, in my muslin. None of that happened this time. :) The fabric I used for the muslin, was not right at all, next time I will be sticking to bottom weight fabric for pants or skirts. And since it as 1/4 inch that was taken in at the crotch and side seams, this makes me wonder, maybe I should go down a size, to 40, but use 42 for back crotch seam alone?

Agnes also taught me a method to fit myself when trying to take some fabric out of the seams. First you pin the extra fabric, from outside (right side of the pants) while wearing it. Then after getting out of the pants, remove each pin, one at a time, carefully and place it on the same location (again on the outside), but catching one fabric only (either front or back piece of the pants, but use the same one for all pins). Repeat this for all pins one by one. Now if you turn the pants inside out, on the wrong side of the fabric, you see the pin basting showing new seam line. You can use a marker (chalk marker or a fabric pen) to mark the new seam on the wrong side. After marking the seam, remove all the pins and baste the new seam line over the mark, again from the wrong side, catching both front and back parts of the pants.

You can use this method to pin side seams, crotch seam, or even back seam. For Darts, you can pin both fabric from outside, open the pants inside out, mark with chalk on the new seamline before removing pins, then remove pins and pin them from inside and sew away the new dart.

Now I have some homework of sewing the newly marked seam line and we'll be attaching the waistband in the next class. Can't wait!

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